Tech Tip: The Dos & Don'ts When Purchasing & Fitting A New Drive Chain

Tech Tip: The Dos & Don'ts When Purchasing & Fitting A New Drive Chain

When it comes down to a worn or knackered drive chain there are a couple of points that one must take into consideration before purchasing a replacement

Although replacing a drive chain does appear to be straight forward, today we will cover the dos and don'ts when placing an order for a replacement drive chain

Further below you will also find tips on how to cut your new drive chain to fit your specific application 

The information below can be used here on the Classic British Spares site or perhaps other sites when selecting a new chain..


Lets get started..

 

Selecting a chain - "The Dos"

Triumph Chain Parts Catalog

 

In order to obtain the correct chain length and pitch, you will need to take the time to inspect and document what your motorcycle currently has fitted to it 

Spending the extra time doing so will make your chain purchase and installation a more positive experience 

Lets go over a few "Dos" which will help you in the short and long term

  

  • Obtain your year, make and model of motorcycle that will require a new drive chain

  • Verify how many teeth on the front and rear drive sprockets currently fitted to your machine

  • Verify the chain count along with the correct chain diameter (width)

  • Refer to a parts book or workshop manual to reference the stock chain length assuming that all parts are “correct” for your application

  • Have the proper tools on hand to cut a chain to any given length

 

Selecting a chain - "The Don'ts"

 

Triumph Workshop Manual Chain Specs

Now that we know what to "do", lets go over "the don'ts

 

  • Do not assume which type of chain you need without consulting your motorcycle

  • Do not rely strictly on a parts book to tell you which chain size you need - (parts get changed over the years)

  • Do not blindly purchase a chain "assuming" that it will fit from the start

 

Cutting chain - quick tips

Assuming that you have followed the steps above and you now have the correct chain in hand, you may find that you need to cut the chain for your specific application

If that happens to be the case, below we will cover how to cut a motorcycle drive chain 

 How To Cut A Final Drive Motorcycle Chain - Steps

 How to cut a chain in 4 easy steps 

Cutting a new drive chain does require the correct tools such as a chain breaker, however if do not have a chain breaker you can use the "bench grinder, hammer and a punch method" as an alternative

The bench grinder method

  1. Mark the desired chain length in which you need to cut
  2. Grind the rivet down 
  3. Take your hammer and punch and apply blunt force over the ground river  (you will be able to see witness marks) and hammer the pin out 
  4. Verify that you have cut the correct link (if done correctly you should have an inner link exposed NOT an outer link - see below photo for details)

Remember, safety first!

 The chain breaker method

Chain Breaker Tool by EMGO

 

If you have a chain breaker handy this is by far the easiest, cleanest and quickest way to properly size your chain 

Just like steps 1-4 above, a chain breaker tool pushes the river pin out without having to grind or hammer the pin out... easy!


Correct vs Incorrect Cutting Of Drive Chain

 What a chain should and should not look like once the chain has been cut

When cutting drive chains it is vital to cut the correct link of chain, I have seen many mistakes when folks cut the incorrect portion of the chain...

This is where most folks "give up" 

Cut the inside chain link NOT the outside (see the photo above)

On your first try you may make this simple yet confusing mistake, if you study the chain, you will find which rivet to remove or cut to expose the inside link

 If you have cut the wrong link of chain it’s not the end of the world, simply cut the chain back 1 link to where the inner chain link is exposed and use a half-link to make up the difference 

 

Your chain, your responsibility

Renold Motorcycle Chains


As a parts seller there is only so much we can do to help our customers in selecting a proper chain

We cannot see through the phone nor do we “assume” what you “might” need so it is very important to follow the steps above

Chains come in “pre/cut” generic link sizes (107,110,120,etc) from our manufacture which includes Renold and KMC so be prepared to cut a chain specific for your application

Unfortunately we will not be able to cut or prepare any drive chain other than what is supplied to us from our manufacture but we would be happy to assist you

Learning how to cut a motorcycle chain is a good skill to have

 

Chains and tools for purchase

 Renold Chain & Chain Breaker Tools

 

Should you need a new replacement chain or tools we have a large selection for most vintage Triumph, BSA and Norton motorcycles

View the chart below showcasing our current stock  - click on the "click here" text to make a purchase

*All drive chains, masterlinks and half-links both Renold and Taiwan are the "narrow / thin wall" variety as OEM

Part Type Brand Link
Motorcycle Chain (all sizes) Renold (Enlgland) Click Here
Masterlinks & Half-links Renold & KMC Click Here
Chain Breaker EMGO (Taiwan) Click Here

 

Thanks for reading today

 

Should you have any questions about today's Tech Tip blog post or you would like to leave us a comment, please join in on the conversation below commenting below

Click here for more Tech Tips blog post like this one 

Thanks for reading, ride safe! 


16 comments

  • Classic British Spares

    @howard – Yes they will fit fine

  • Classic British Spares

    Folks, there are a lot of new riders / mechanics in this hobby

    Saying things as “if you don’t have a chain breaker you shouldn’t be riding” is ludicrous

    That is the type of mentality that does not attract people into the hobby which will kill the industry

    Instead, I write these posts to educate people that do not have / know the basic information

    We all have to start somewhere, why not here?

    As for the other comments, yes chain width 520, 530, o-ring type, narrow, wide all comes into consideration when purchasing a chain. We have more info on this in the chain links when you are ready to purchase

    Please keep the comments positive or do not comment at all

  • catweazle

    do you think someone who even don’t know how to shorten a rear chain – should ride an old brit bike ?
    the total helpless riders are getting more and more…….it seems there are a lot of those new style ‘Harleyriders’ swaping to british crap…….how long will it take to destroy the Image of the britbike-riders – like it was with the Harley guys ?…….sorry for the frustrating Facts….

  • media trends

    I shared a link to your blog with my husband and he is just delighted,media trends that you show the most important information on every detail.

  • Jerry Roy

    A few other points about secondary chains are that they come in different widths, usually 520 and 530. 520 came on 50’s era BSA’s, and are narrower between the links than the 530’s.
    Then there are O ringed and non O ringed type chains. Another type is the X ringed type. A 520 with O/X rings is about as wide outside as a 530, and sometimes the extra width can cause problems with clearance at the sprocket / case area. So check before you install a 520 O ring type on an early BSA.
    A BING search will get you a lot more information.

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